I felt like a veteran after my first courier trip to London last June. Now I wanted that "last-minute" trip I had read about so often in The Shoestring Traveler. I recently retired from my position as a teacher, so I studied the IAATC's fax-on-demand updates avidly since I have more time to travel now. There was a free trip to Hong Kong -- I called Jupiter Air, but they couldn't shorten the three-week stay to one week.

Then I found a courier flight through Now Voyager to Brussels.

Last-Minute Take-Off
I still get excited when I think that on Monday morning I woke up with the usual daily chores on my mind, and by afternoon I was preparing for a flight that very night. Stephanie, the Halbart Express courier coordinator, was very kind and helpful. We laid plans by phone and fax, I packed my one carry-on bag, passport, frequent-flyer award card, and was pacing the JFK American Airline departure area at 4 p.m., looking for the Halbart van. The representative arrived about 2 hours later than I expected, but the good news is that when he got there I was given tickets for both my outbound and return flights. I had no duties to perform and was advised to just get on the plane and have a wonderful time.

I decided to visit the Netherlands for most of the week and save the final day and night of my trip for the city of Brussels. I love to read the Shoestring stories about swilling beer with the locals and spending nights in cheap hotels with "character," but as an older lady traveling alone I prefer a little more comfort. I was still able to budget carefully and ferret out some clean, family-run hotels. I also saved by purchasing a Benelux Rail Pass. For $150 I got unlimited second-class rail privileges throughout Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands for any 5 days within a 15-day period.

I went to Amsterdam first. I arrived at 2 p.m. _ tired, but excited by the vibrance and vitality of the old canal city. I stayed at the Doelien Hotel on the Amstel River where I could hear the town's bustle and was right in the center of things. I spent two marvelous days meandering through the streets and flower markets, visiting museums, listening to bits of lives as words fell from the windows of the gabled houses that I passed. I took a boat trip on the canal and ate at outdoor cafes where I could sit and people-watch for hours in the pleasant 70-degree temperatures that prevailed throughout my visit.

The high point of my Amsterdam stay was a performance by the Martha Graham Dance Company. I was able to get a ticket through the kindness of the company's able and considerate manager. That night was a treat -- the audience went crazy with applause and shared excitement! The Dutch all speak English; they are friendly, clean and very proud of Amsterdam.

It was time to strike out into the countryside. I belong to an international organization called Servas. It is designed to foster peace and world understanding through local family-stays around the world. While I was still in Amsterdam I made arrangements to visit an elderly couple who live at the northern tip of the Netherlands in Farmsum. Once again I made use of my rail pass, and on the way I stopped in the town of Zwolle in the Overijssel region. The area is known for its canals and fortified city gates that date back to the 1400s. I arrived on market day and was delighted to find rows of colorful flowers and booth after booth piled high with fabrics and every kind of sewing paraphenalia. I stayed at the family-run Hotel Fidder near the town center and the railway station. For $42 I had a small single with bath down the hall and a memorable breakfast including eggs, bacon, fruit, yogurt, cheese, ham, breads and cereal. Within 24 hours I was on the train again.

Meeting the Host Family
The train made a stop at Groningen, the major city in the north, where I had to change for Delefzijl. There was time to wander down one of the worn cobbled alleys between stone buildings that date back into the 12th century. Apples are an important local crop. I had a lunch of goulash and salad for $6, and walked to the square for coffee and the best apple cake in the world.

Delefzijl was where I was to meet my host family, but they had neglected to tell me on the phone that there were two stations in the town -- one in the west and a central station. I got off at the first stop, the western one, and looked around for an elderly couple. It was small and open and deserted. I waited and began to despair. When a tall thin teen-age girl arrived I struck up a conversation with her and learned about the other station. She had the wholesome good looks of Dutch youth and a warm and generous heart. She was only 13 or 14 and although she assured me that a short, 2-kilometer walk up the tracks would lead me to my destination, she sensed my lack of courage to go alone and offered to walk with me. So we jumped off the 5-foot embankment and headed east on the tracks, luggage cart in tow. I was certain that my life would end there in the path of an oncoming train, but my fears were unjustified. There was plenty of room for pedestrians, and there was even a parallel bike path. After a few minutes, a woman on a bike rode into view and asked if I might be Barbara from the United States. I was so happy to see Mrs. Beukema, we hugged and walked another 20 minutes to her village home in Farmsum.

Tours & Hospitality
For two days I enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Beukema couple, shared their simple table, slept in their small attic guest room, and talked of my life in the States and theirs in Northern Holland. We toured the dykes and windmills I had so long wanted to see, and I was given a personal tour by the miller of a working mill. We visited 9th-century churches. We made a trip to the nearby village of Pieterburen where there is a hospital for seals. This well-known clinic attracts volunteers from all over the world, and has connections with marine stations in the U.S. We arrived at feeding time and watched the seals gobble down a dinner of fresh fish. My stay in Farmsum was perfect, but soon it was time to set out for Brussels and the finale of my "last-minute" trip.

Beautiful Brussels
The five-hour train ride to Brussels included three changes. The trains are well organized and punctual to the second. Passengers can get a computer print-out of the times, tracks and changes to their destination.

I found Brussels to be absolutely breathtaking. The Aris Hotel has a friendly and accommodating staff and is located right in the heart of the city -- at almost $100 a night it was a splurge I allowed myself on the last night. It's difficult to do justice to Brussels in words. It is a city that has to be experienced -- both by day and at night. The light show that played off the buildings of the Grand Place at 10 p.m. was wonderful. There wasn't much time left, but I was able to visit a few churches and happened into a vesper service at one of them. The restaurants along the Marche aux Poissons include those specializing in dishes of mussels or shrimp, pasta or Chinese food. I finally settled for one and was served more seafood than I could eat and a lovely wine for a total of $10. The weather conditions were milder than usual for April, and the cafes brimmed over with guests. They socialized at outdoor tables, enjoying temperate breezes and delicious fare in the city streets of Brussels, "The Capital of Europe."

After a refreshing night's sleep, with grand memories filling my dreams, I used my Benelux pass for the last time on the 35-minute ride to the airport. I'm writing this down just a week after getting home and I'm already wondering when and where my third courier flight will take me. Will it be planned or last-minute? It doesn't matter. I just can't wait!

NOTE: Travelers interested in learning about the organization Servas can get information by contacting U.S. Servas, 11 John Street #407, New York, NY 10038-4009. Tel.: (212) 267-0252.

IAATC Member, Brooktondale, New York
(c) Copyright 1989 - 2004