Madrid Courier's Magic Carpet Ride to Morocco

By Gerald S. Radloff
IAATC Member, Grosse Pointe Woods, Michigan
(c) Copyright 1989 - 2004

Being retired, 56, and having the urge to travel again, I put on my backpack and took a courier flight from Miami to Madrid with Line Haul Services. Roundtrip cost was $200.

Whenever I travel, I try to stay at a Hosteling International hostel; they have more than 3,000 locations around the world. There are two in Madrid; I stayed at Marcenado (Calle St. Cruz de Marcenado No. 28, Madrid. Tel. (91) 5474532) for 1200 pesetas a night (US$10). The fun of staying at a youth hostel is the mix of travelers and the lasting friendships that can result.

World Class Museums

Madrid is a wonderful city. While there I visited the Museo Del Prado, home of El Greco's work and the modern art museum, Reina Sofia, which houses Picasso's "Guernica." I'd never been a Picasso fan, but after seeing and learning about this 10'x20' masterpiece I was won over. Guernica is a town in Northern Spain that was bombed by Nazis during the Spanish Civil War. Picasso captured the pain and suffering on canvas, and years later when asked by a Nazi if he did the painting Picasso answered "No, you did it."

The Atocha train station is a must-see in Madrid. The interior is a tropical rain forest that is misted every few minutes to keep the plants healthy and beautiful. I went there to check train schedules and decide where to go next, but couldn't make up my mind.

Two Votes for Morocco

That night, back at the hostel, my decision was made when I met a fellow from Japan who was on his way to Morocco that very night. I joined him and by 11 p.m. we were aboard an Enatcar bus bound for Algeciras on the southern coast of Spain across from Tangier, Morocco. The ten-hour bus ride was 3385 pts. (US$28). Then a ferry across to Tangier (5600 pts./US$45 roundtrip) landed us in Morocco. We met an American woman on board who was married to a Moroccan. She convinced us to travel on to Asilah, a village 25 miles to the south where a friend of hers rented us a room at #17 Asilah Kasbah for US$10 per person. We stayed for three nights; it was wonderful!

Turkish Bath & Massage

After the long bus and boat rides, I decided that a visit to a Turkish bath was in order. The masseur and I negotiated a price of US$10 for bath and massage, and what an experience it was. I was twisted and bent until I almost screamed! It was fun though, and the masseur and I had a good laugh even though I spoke no Arabic and he spoke no English.

During our stay in Asilah, my Japanese friend and I hired a horse-cart and driver and visited Paradise Beach. I bought a fine Moroccan rug and a jalapa, which is a robe. Wearing the jalapa made me feel part of the culture instantly. I got a sense that the Moroccans appreciated it; after donning the robe, I got a "thumbs-up" several times and a resounding, "Jalapa!"

Finally we headed back to Tangier where my friend went on to Casablanca and I prepared to return to Spain _ but not before a quick visit to The Kasbah.

I had dreamed of winding my way through the kasbah since I was a child. It is crowded with shoppers and full of shops that double as living quarters. It's a very exciting place. Hiking boots made the walk easier for me because there were many steep climbs and cobbled surfaces that made footing difficult along countless narrow passageways.

International Signals

I speak no Arabic, but I was still able to converse with the locals. I never cease to be amazed at how you can communicate with hand signals _ it really is an international language. There is so much to explore, but it was time for my return courier flight before I knew it.

On the final morning of the trip I waited for over an hour at the Madrid Airport before I met my contact and was given my return ticket. He bid me a friendly "Adios, amigo!" and I was on my way back to Miami.