By Theodore Lewis
Contributing Editor
(c) Copyright 1989 - 2004

When I discovered that World Courier in New York was offering $100 flights to Milan, it seemed too good to be true!

I phoned the courier coordinator, Barbara, and she kindly set me up with a nine-day trip leaving JFK. This was a great opportunity to do some Christmas shopping in the city that gave us the word "millinery." I would be able to purchase silk, designer ties and scarves for my family. It would also give me a chance to visit many of the places in Italy I had always wanted to see without the usual crowds of tourists.

On arriving at JFK, I took a taxi to the World Courier office near the airport and received my instructions. Their driver took me back to the airport where I checked in for the flight on Lufthansa.

Several large bags were checked to Frankfurt, but I had no duties to perform there. I changed planes in Frankfurt for the one-hour flight to Milan where I was met by Morizio. He recognized me immediately by the button I was wearing. After delivering a small, white envelope, and clearing customs and immigration, he kindly showed me to the bank, where I changed dollars to lire (US$1 = 1,550 lira). The five-mile bus ride from Linate airport into Milan was L4000.

Train to Verona

Arriving in Verona, I proceeded to the youth hostel, Ostello Della Gioventu, situated in the 16-c. Villa Francescati. I went through boot camp in the Navy and don't mind sleeping in a dormitory. Fortunately, I ended up with a room to myself for L15,000 (US$10), including breakfast.

In the morning, I visited the "House of Juliet" and the amphitheater which dates from the First Century. It was the third largest in the Roman world and could hold up to 25,000 spectators.

In Venice, where I ventured next, I stayed at the Foresteria Della Chiesa Valdese, which is run by a Protestant church. It offers dormitory beds at hostel prices -- L22,000 (US$14), with breakfast. Venice is an ideal place to explore on foot. Since the lodgings are near the Piazza San Marco, if you get lost you just ask "Dove San Marco?" People will point you in the right direction.

The local ferries (bus boats) that ply the canals are called "Vaporetti." I bought a day-pass for about US$10 which allowed me to get on and off anyplace they went.

After Venice, I headed for Siena. I didn't realize that it was a national holiday, and when I boarded the train it was packed. A nice young man was kind enough to give me his fold-down aisle seat; I guess getting old and having a white beard pays off!

When I arrived in Siena, I couldn't find a place to stay because of the holiday. Finally, I found Ostello Per Al Gioventu "Guidoriccio," a youth hostel located in the Stellino neighborhood. The first night I had a room all to myself for L18,000 (US$11.50), breakfast included. I should mention that breakfast in Italy means bread, jam and coffee.

Unwelcome Roommate

I peeked out when I heard the water running and saw my roommate washing his feet. About 10 minutes later, after the lights were out, I heard the water running again. My roommate was throwing up in the sink! I told myself, "The heck with being a shoestring traveler; tomorrow I'm going to spring for a real hotel room!"

On Sunday I caught the early train to Florence. I have been there several times and only planned to stay for one day. I got a single room at the Il Perseo hotel for L50,000 ($32). If I leaned way out of my window and looked to the left, I could see the red tiled dome of the Duomo --A Room with a View!

Sunday afternoon was relaxing; I walked around, crossed the Ponte Vecchio and wandered through a flea market where I didn't see anything I couldn't live without. I went on to Pisa the next morning.

In Pisa I visited the leaning bell tower, the cathedral and the baptistry, which is the largest in Italy. The train-ride from Pisa to Milan, by way of Genoa, was beautiful; we traveled along the Cenque Terre Coast, passing through many tunnels.

One can't help but notice the finely-dressed women in Milan, one of the top fashion centers of the world. Fur coats abound; the animal rights people must have been run out of town. I had hoped to go to La Scala while I was there, but there were no performances during my two nights in Milan. I did, however, visit the museum in the building as well as the Bera Gallery and Sforza Castle. The Duomo, Milan's cathedral, is the third largest church in Europe. It will hold 12,000 worshipers, and took more than 450 years to build after work was begun in 1386. In the late afternoon the local bars put out all sorts of free hors d'eourves, and for the price of a L3,000 (US$2) beer you can eat a light meal.

Wednesday morning was time to go back to work. I took the local #73 bus (L1,500) to Linate airport, and caught my flight to Frankfurt where I met the World Courier contact. He checked in one pouch and wished me a Merry Christmas and a safe flight to New York.

At JFK Airport I passed though immigration, picked up my personal luggage and proceded to the "ships office" in the customs area where I met the courier representative. He cleared the one pouch and sent me on my way.

By the time I took the Carey bus to 42nd Street in Manhattan it was too late to make my connection to Newark airport for Baltimore, so I walked a few blocks to the Soldiers and Sailors Club on Lexington and 37th Street where I obtained a single room for $30, and continued home to Baltimore the next day.